CHAPTER I.

FROM PARIS TO BORDEAUX.

Departure from Paris—Subterranean Dwellings—Château Regnault—Tours—Châtellerault— Angoulême—The Landes—Cubzac—Bordeaux—The Theatre—The Cathedral— St. Michael's Tower—Mummified Corpses—The Museum

CHAPTER II.

FROM BORDEAUX TO VERGARA.

The Landes—Arrival at Bayonne—Information for Travellers—Urrugne— Saint Jean de Luz—Human Smuggling—Bridge over the Bidassoa—Irun—Travelling with Mules— Primitive Carts—Beggar Children—Spanish Bridges—Oyarzun—Astigarraga— A Spanish Supper—Puchero—Arrival at Vergara

CHAPTER III.

FROM VERGARA TO BURGOS.

Vergara—Vittoria: the Baile Nacional and the French Hercules—The Passage of Pancorbo— The Asses and the Greyhounds—Burgos—A Spanish Fonda—Galley Slaves in Cloaks— The Cathedral—The Coffer of the Cid

CHAPTER IV.

BURGOS—continued.

The Cloisters; Paintings and Sculptures—The Cid's House; the Casa del Cordon; the Puerta de Santa Maria—The Theatre and the Actors—La Cartuja de Miraflores—General Thibaut and the Cid's bones

CHAPTER V.[iv]

FROM BURGOS TO MADRID.

El Correo Real; the Galeras—Valladolid—San Pablo—A Representation of Hernani— Santa Maria—Madrid

CHAPTER VI.

MADRID.

Bull-fights—The Arena—Calesins—Espadas, Chulos, Banderilleros, and Picadores— Sevilla the Picador—La Estocada a Vuela Pies

CHAPTER VII.

MADRID—continued.

The Prado—The Mantilla and Fan—The Spanish Type—Water-Merchants; Coffee-houses of Madrid—Newspapers—The Politicians of the Puerta del Sol—Post-Office—The Houses of Madrid—Tertullias; Spanish Society—The Teatro del Principe—The Queen's Palace; the Palace of the Cortes, and the Monument of the Dos de Mayo—The Armeria and El Buen Retiro

CHAPTER VIII.

VISIT TO THE ESCURIAL.

Aridity and Desolation of the Country—First View of the Escurial—Sombre appearance of the building—The Church—The blind Cicerone—The Pantheon Pictures—Anecdote of Spanish Robbers

CHAPTER IX.

EXCURSION TO TOLEDO.