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Transylvania in the 1660s: a young prince, a scheming wife, the Turks at the border and a mountain country that has learned to survive by playing everyone against everyone. Jókai read out the demands of the 1848 revolution on the museum steps in Pest and spent his life writing Hungary into existence; this is his Transylvania, romantic and bloody. Fifty-three plates, from Jan Wyck to Edvard Munch, carry the forest, the cavalry charge and the farmstead through three centuries of European painting.

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