Please note: This is a companion version & not the original book.
Sample Book Insights:
#1 On December 23, 1994, a trio of renowned big-wave surfers from the Hawaiian Islands, Brock Little, Ken Bradshaw, and Mark Foo, arrived at Pillar Point to join the local crew in the surf. The names and faces of the three Hawaiians were familiar to most of the five million surfers on the planet.
#2 The waves at Mavericks are infamous for being huge, and some even claim they are bigger than the famous waves at Hawaii’s Waimea Bay. However, the waves failed to live up to the hype in 1990.
#3 Big-wave surfing has become a serious sport, with only a few hundred people in the world being able to drop into the jaws of a 40-foot wave and emerge on their feet. The difference between riding a head-high wave and a hollow, dredging 40-footer is the difference between driving 35 mph and 200 mph.
#4 The big-wave brotherhood has always held audacity in high esteem, but a fine distinction is made between boldness and idiocy. Idiocy is termed kook behavior and is one of the worst epithets in the surfers’ lexicon.