Paul Clements took to the road in search of the county tops, armed with his own rules of the road, 'Forsake all 21st century Celtic superhighways in favour of boreens'. Faced with leave he couldn't afford, Paul travelled the GMRs (Great Mountain Roads), exploring remote corners of little known counties, some very flat, and spent time with the eccentric and the quaint. Meet Cathy Rea who can see, and even smell, fairies! Listen to tales of druids, banshees, highwaymen and loose women. And learn how a poet stops Errigal's ego from deflating. P.S. Paul found only 28 tops!