Living as a young white woman with a tribe in Pre-Independence Papua New Guinea where the tribe had limited European contact but welcomed me to share their village life, customs, travels by outrigger canoe and ceremonies. Their coastal language was only spoken within a small radius, with each tribe having its own totems and traditions. The story tells of a Romeo and Juliet style suicide tragedy, but amongst other experiences, also highlights the joys of travelling back from church on Christmas Day along a lagoon - our outrigger lit only by the stars, a coconut lamp and flashes of phosphoresence.